L’Homme Infini (Divine) – Reviw

After the Big Bang comes the Divine particle – L’Homme Infini – a fabulous scent.
In the early 90’s an eminent professor from the University prepared me on quantum mechanics for the National Physics contest which I won. Among the many formulae and their mathematical background was a certain philosophy and conversations which I thought more useful for what I always loved – perfumes and organic chemistry. On a metaphoric level, the perfume, a form of LUX in its Latin expression, shows a similar strange duality to the famous particle-wave duality. A physical / chemical dimension of small elements which act around you with a “magnetism” and an invisible power like a “field”. No surprise that “magnet”, “aimant” and many other similar words related to its forces were used to speak about creations from the past from Coty to Gabriela Sabatini. It is a form of poetry to “explain” the profound effects of the scent which enters your nose – “what you inhale has direct access to your brain”. L’Homme Infini, recently launched by Divine, is one of those perfumes profoundly anchored in a tradition which transcends time or space and links the invisible traces left by its author, Yann Vasnier, in his previous works. Like the previous one, this was an instant coup de foudre. The essence of Bang, with its strong peppery woodiness, emerges in the dark Druid forest which surrounds the Western coast of France up to the place where Divine was born many years ago. It is a profound homage to the oak, the bitter astringent facet of its bark rich in tanins which are perceptible in several vines. Take the oak of roman emperors, the sacred gui/mistletoe (Viscum) and the houx/holly ilex and you have the expression of divine transposed in a scent from the forest. Many notes are evoked by this wonderful scent – thuya, sage, artemisia, the bitterness of wallnut leaf and nut (nux gallica) and cypres. It is also the natural odor of Christmas because these plants are often associated with this period of the year. Serene and slightly spicy with metallic elemi and pepper, L’Homme Infini brings something which hasn’t been around for many decades – sharp bitterness – and I am thinking about a perfume I love very much with a Tibetan theme (I do not name it because it became too expensive even for me on e-bay since I started to praise very good old perfumes). At the heart of L’homme Infini (Divine) lies the oak theme, warm and serene, but the new element, compared to Bang and the woody vetiver facet of Terre, is the green element – almost pungent over the soft musky sensual base with new Givaudan musks.  Like in the previous successful creation, the theme is highly stylized because very modern elements are used to evoke and not to depict known themes in perfumery. There is oud, but not the arabic one (mixed with balms) – it is the wood rich in tanins much like a perfume created for Tom Ford. Green nutty and abstract smoky with a vetiver which floats between rhubarb and the bitter aldehydic skin of a frozen pomelo, L’Homme Infini offers a sensation of nobility, distinction wrapped in the sensuality of a pure white cotton shirt. Monastic by its “herbal” mixture, but terrible sensual through its woody muskiness, the creation has a profound effect on the wearer without disclosing its “secret” tonality in a similar way to the original Black Cashmere (DK) on the other side of the spectrum. Those who loved the first Gucci pour Homme with its incense-woody theme, not monastic but sensual, will discover with L’Homme Infini the infinity of nature – the green sacred forests with oak. A concentrate of perfection with a tremendous sillage. It is one of the best masculine launches of the year with none of the classic Parisian tricks – lascive fruity sweetness.  With L’Homme Infini, Yann Vasnier introduces with grace a new theme in perfumery – the oak – a note well know in oenology, but not as often used in perfumes, with one notable exception sold in a green bottle. A very old creation from Givaudan was based on “green oak”, but it is probably totally lost today. 

Cierge de Lune by Aedes de Venustas

f you were to define the late 1990’s, early 2000’s by a smell, you’d do worse than point to sultry floral vanillas such as Hypnotic Poison (milky almond), the original Dior Addict (boozy night flower vanilla), Organza Indecence (spiced eggnog), and Kenzo Amour (creamed rice). These perfumes all share a faintly sleazy, morning-after-the-night-before quality, like a woman who stumbles out of a bar at 6am, mascara smudged, and clothes reeking of cigarette smoke.

Their genius – or downfall, depending on personal taste – is that they smell like perfume that’s already been on the skin already for 10 hours or more, completely broken in by the day’s activity. These sort of perfumes don’t pretend to be fresh or innocent. They smell like that 6am walk of shame even if you’re putting it on to go teach pre-school.

Cierge de Lune has a tiny bit of this 2000’s sleazy floral vanilla thing going on. For a while, I thought it reminded me of another re-do of this genre, namely Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme, but then I realized that it takes a little from each of those stalwarts listed above and shakes it up in a jar. It has the milky, poisonous feel of Hypnotic Poison, the blurry vanilla rice of Kenzo Amour, the peppery dryness of Organza Indecence, and the cigarette-tainted night flower aura of the original 2002 Addict.

But the model has clearly been updated for a more modern gal, with lots of sharp pink pepper up front, an injection of cosmetic dusting powder to leaven the dough, and a generous dose of cashmeran and Ambroxan in the base. It is dry, translucent, and in a firm move away from the 2000’s floral vanilla mold, refreshingly non-sweet. It still has the morning-after-the-night-before feel of the floral vanillas of the earl 2000’s, but its peppery sheerness marks it out as a more modern, streamlined variation.

Unfortunately, I find something a little anonymous about the base, which seems to be a mix of salty, ambery Ambrox and cashmeran-driven suede. The base gives the scent enormous volume, but like another cashmeran-heavy perfume I recently wore, Ambre Cashmere by Parfums de Nicolai, something about it reads as being more for the benefit of the other people in the room than for its wearer. The scent trail smells amazing, but up close, the Ambrox-cashmeran has some unattractive features. It amplifies, for example, the cyanide almond facets of the ylang, with a medicinal edge that calls to mind germolene mixed with silly putty. Ambre Cashmere has a similar trajectory, in that 10% of the scent smells like champagne, 40% slightly chemical up close, and the remaining 50% clearly aimed at pleasing anyone downwind of you (but not you, specifically).

Weirdly, though, it’s the voluminous scent trail aspects of both scents that attract me the most. The parts of Cierge de Lune that I catch on the air are beautiful – gauzy ribbons of dry vanilla, pepper, musk, and yellow flowers fluttering in the breeze around me. At the same time, it makes me wistful that this is the part of the scent that’s for public show, not for my own private pleasure. If Aedes de Venustas would allow us to mix and match the scents in their travel spray sets, I might be very tempted to pursue this further. As it is, I think I’ll re-test Ambre Cashmere to see if a small bottle of that would scratch the vanillambercashmere itch that seems to come upon me every time the temperatures approach zero.

Hoarding your treasures

OK, you cologne hoarders, this one’s for you. Looking through Some older B&W photos of my family from way back when placed me in a bittersweet haze of nostalgia, so I went to savoring mode and pulled my wee little dabs of Chanel Bois des Iles and Cuir p Russe parfums.

The Russe was practically goneso I tipped the rest Dropout on my Wrist, in the spirit of savoring it before it had completely vanished. Its loss will be mourned as it is tres elegant and a near-masterpiece of odor, but I really don’t believe I’ll be quite moved to tears, having never been true-blue leather fiend.

At the danger of Sounding schmaltzy, Its hot, sleek, divine gingerbread-y goodness makes me swoon just a little, and leaves my perfume-loving tiny heart move pitter patter with happiness. Not to have an appropriate supply with the is almost heartbreaking. When my little vial is vacant, I fear that I will shout, and it’s not going to be pretty. Unfortunately, my wallet can’t take the hit of $225 to get 1-5 mls, not with a aging car (forcing 260,000 miles) and faculty only round the corner because of the own teenage. Sigh …

Used to be you can get a little sample out of the decanting services Without spending from the neighborhood of a car payment, but since Chanel broken down, it’s been rough. I guess there still maybe perfumista splits every once in awhile, but I always seem to be out of the loop on people.

Anyhoo, after this spring, I’ll split my heartbreakingly lovely Vacances, I have somewhat more of the, luckily, thus putting off the despair for still another year or two. Btw, I thought some one was re-issuing all-the Patou classics within the past few decades? Anyone know what ever happened with this?

I must confess: I have hoarded pretty heavily in the past, but am now Inspired to use it or discard itas they say. I have seen some gorgeous vials waste away to emptiness, without the hours of love to show for them. So from now on, my small dribs and drabs of greatness will no longer be wasted; yet, they’re not going down without a struggle.

Think about you? What cologne rarity do You’ve secreted away, that Near-Holy Grail treasure that you’re hoarding, or wearing sparingly

Mitzah DIOR – Review

Matzah is about as close to fragrant devotion for me personally as is Potential. I know the parts and makings of this, the fixing list, smelled most pieces . Mitzah transcends its parts to eventually become something more grand and luscious than might have been expected. An amber however an unexpected one. Sweetened with honey, labdanum and a sterile patchouli. The increased is crisp and lightly spiced. Smoky incense and the fiery sizzle of cinnamon and other spices. Even the green herbal wash of coriander, that serves to bind the whole into a cohesive fragrance. As for me, I think we are missing several notes here, vanilla, musk and some white blossoms look like from the mix.

What it really smells like though is high priced. Somehow, François Demachy has made an olfactory masterpiece using those tried and tested old pieces and pieces.

While I spritz Mitzah I am sent on a travel. I’m a movie star at a Premier, a bedouin crossing the desert, a decoration bride in a charity gala And any number of improbable amazing things. Each Time that the ride and Dream are distinct but always the lightly animalic flowery and smoky incense. An antiques for many seasons and genders, universal.

“Your cologne is currently giving me the chills / a hassle / asthma!”

How often have you heard that line in one variation or another? Or have you been of those sufferers who feels as if you are likely to erupt any time from the fumes which are coming your way from the hall? There are just two sides to every argument and the present day (mostly Americanised) happening of complaining about perfume-wearing at the workplace and community spaces is fascinating to interrogate, if hysterically over acted sometimes. Much like usually the one involving Susan McBride, a Detroit city employee who maintained a co-worker’s cologne and room deodorizer caused her to suffer from migraines and nausea and subsequently sued the town, asserting the botanical workplace hindered her from working correctly.

Most significantly, nonetheless, McBride actually acquired a $100,000 settlement and Detroit city employees in the three buildings where McBride works are now being warned to not use botanical products and solutions, including colognes, aftershave, perfumes and deodorants, and even use candles and air fresheners! Incidents like this and reportage from common folks who comment on MSN articles citing the episode as a typical example of a larger difficulty make me think. And the majority of interesting questions within this world begin with one simple word:”why”. WHY has been awarded much importance in today’s society? Why can this annoyance greater now in place of decades before? And is blossom and blossom goods demonized in such a way? Is cologne wearing the newest taboo? Or the smoking?

Let’s begin with a typical example, taken from actual comments by readers. One woman cares about her coworker constantly brewing fresh chai tea five times every day on her desk (speak about a great deal of constipation, however, let us not undertake this right now). The smell of tea brewed . She complains she is getting a headache. The different woman quips by saying she’s a headache by the smell of these noodles that one other woman brought in any office yesterday! The situation escalates to the point that the incident is reported to Human Resources and the ground manager. Chair brewing is attracted to a block. You visit. . .nothing can be as uncomplicated as a very simple repulsion into this smell of something. Imagine how this can take on different shades of significance once the offending item in question is that a scented gift from a beloved person and even if it takes on the”enlightened” appeal of aromatherapeutic products. Or…the horrors, a smallish deodorant (prohibiting it risking a major case of the BOs) or even the cleansing fluid for the floors!

I actually don’t deny that for one moment! Let me repeat: I really don’t deny it. People fight symptoms which may be debilitating. Some are seizure-like, remembering epilepsy (“sensitivity to strong smells, flashing lights and certain noises”). For all that there is proper medical attention, while common sense dictates to respect people and tone whatever is making them sick, even assuming the pruning continues to be powerful. However, just how much that is real and how much can be simulated for a variety of factors? Where can you draw the line between needing something hurt them (“I am becoming nauseated”) and using something just annoy their aesthetic principles (“I despise that odor”)? Reportedly the proportion of medical conditions is very low. Is politically wrong, if the stink comes in body odour or perfume or smoke. . .Has this political correctness which has pervaded the Western society prevented men and women from giving voice into what displeases them in a reasonable and level-mannered method, thereby sparking secondary incisions that cause overacting and passive aggressiveness? I do believe that it has.

Scent mapping is beginning to develop into very same of weeds and a victim attitude which could”cover” for different things, a few of which are concrete in the shape of monetary recompensation. People have ideas, after that $100,000 settlement. Nevertheless, it is the power trip which gives the thrill. Scent has always biologically been ways to indicate one’s territory and man (and woman), a grown-up creature out of the jungle, is optimizing the method by donning olfactory shoulder pads, signaling one’s personal distance. Refuting someone’s directly to gnaw in your personal space -over the people – sounds like resistance to usurped power, promising a portion of the frequent property straight ago, putting the line on a person’s power. Doubly so, as perfume choice and human odour is this kind of intimate, personal matter. It reads as rejection of someone on a profound, core level. How frequently have you made a possible lover as you didn’t like the way that they smelled? And how many times have you felt flattered because someone praised your scent?
“Someone does not necessarily have the right to wear cologne, but anyone does have the right to have the ability to breathe at the workplace” is mentioned as reason behind the indignation. Obviously cologne wearing is considered frivolous. The floodgates on entitlement to the cult of”me” opened up at some time during the last twenty years, after which a major step backwards in basic ways and good sense ensued. That brings me to the next point: It is mentioned that the majority of ailments and also the escalation of such cases is observed at the US (and also to a smaller degree Canada). Other countries do not have this type of problem (yet, at least). What’s this? I think it’s to do with a handful reasons.

To start with, that the frivolity of cologne seems ingrained at a WASP mindset , the glorification of water and soap of nearly religious significance. “Cleanliness is next to godliness”, right? The aphorism is similarly coined in different languages to extol the worth of cleanup; but the bond is not made into the celestial, but instead of other values, such as social status. To help expand this syllogism, one may argue that by eschewing the god-prefered fresh smell of soap and warm water, covering it up with perfume is”reeking” of suspicious motives. What are you attempting to cover up, dude? Perfume wearing has for long being tied to associates of their fair sex of non standing particularly (parfum de puta), looking to cover the smell of different men on these, along with perhaps a witchhunt mindset in which scent was used to ensnare men and control them through the subliminal medium of olfaction.

Another reason is that the cubicle farm civilization is most commonplace in the united states instead of several other nations. The tightknit space does induce discomfort, battle and ennui! Someone needs to be blamed and perfume is really simple to focus on. Especially so since smells invade our space and activate emotional reactions. Which makes me farther the notion: doesn’t have one contemplated Sick Building Syndrome? A number of the symptoms involved with cologne intolerance happen to become identical with the ones for the aforementioned state.

What’s even more intriguing is that I clearly remember a perfumer saying that American perfumes are made with a higher concentration within the established Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum concentrations in order to meet the taste to possess your own cologne announcing you, a form of”olfactory shoulder pads” that was quite mandatory by the market focus bands on US soil. Early reality confirms that some of the most potent, powerful fragrances first met with success in the US, such as for instance Narcisse Noir by Caron, due to this taste. In a currency market maybe this isn’t always the case, although several popular fragrances do have produced at several factories for different countries (“made in US” compared to”made in France” etc., plus the gap in the smoking used as a carrier vehicle for those essences) Several of these modern”wash” aromas posture American brand names (the Clean brand for instance) are so harsh and synthetic that they do pierce sinuses. In view of the aforementioned could it be any wonder that many Americans are complaining? I really don’t believe it’s entirely their fault! But it will make for a brand new arena for its promise of private space within a tight, over populated world.

On to you: Can Be cologne the hottest taboo? Could it be the weapon to battle the battles in the workplace? Do you have any issues out of some body else’s scent?

Louis Vuitton Les Sables Roses – Review

Following Ombre Nomade, Your House of Louis Vuitton presents the new exclusive Variant from the Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Lineup, inspired by the Middleeast – Les Sables Roses. The road of ceaseless sensuality, specialized in the magic of this desert, Les Sables Roses honors the fragrant tradition of this portion of earth.

Les Sables Roses Presents a sexy and trendy makeup with ingredients which conquer every other. In the desert, sunrise and sunset are enchanting scenes; passing minutes that relate opposites such as night and day, shadow and light, cold and heat, skies and land.

Attracted to all the scents, rituals and traditions of this several thousand years old cologne culture, perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud Created a friendlier makeup, based across roses, oud and also Ambergris since the 3 raw materials that had time and Geography to say”something eternal.”

Carolina Herrera Good Girl Dot Drama Collector Edition – Review

Free yourself and allow your senses to be enticed by the interesting world of the stimulating odor. This new limited edition for collectors, Great Girl Dot Drama signed by Karlie Kloss understands the middle of attention due to its picture stiletto shape and the timeless polka dots of Carolina Herrera.
Great Girl Dot Drama dare to withstand?

The stiletto heels of this collector’s edition for Great Girl Dot Drama conveys the traditional female odor Great Girl, which exemplifies that the duality of the modern femme fatale. The candy almond notes extend to a center of lily draped at a bit of tonka toasted beans and ginger which include a sense of equilibrium.